In this post, we share our September road trip that took us from San Francisco all the way to the California and Oregon border. There are so many things to do in northern California, and it’s highly likely you’ll experience severe FOMO no matter what your itinerary entails. We did… Even so, we still had one of our most memorable trips in the States.
Sunsets, beaches, redwoods, seals, and wine country, there really is no excuse to not explore northern California by car. Honestly, this is one of those regions that we could just drive aimlessly, days on end, and enjoy every minute. It’s that beautiful. But since your time, like ours, is probably limited, we’d like to share some highlights that we think you would enjoy. The goal of this post is to provide you with plenty of options and tips to help you curate your own trip up and down the northern California and, of course, provide some info on where to grab a bite.
We should also mention that our road trip mainly followed the coast. Sonoma is the exception, as we mainly explored wine country the last day or two. We did head inland around the Redwoods National Park area as well but didn’t venture too far because of fire danger. We’ll have to return another day to visit the more central and eastern areas because they look amazing too! When traveling to northern California, make sure you’re aware of fires! Utilize Cal Fire to stay up to date on the latest.
Driving Tips and Tricks
We flew into San Francisco and getting our rental car was a breeze. We used Kayak to book our rental car. We’ve found many great deals on Kayak whether stateside or abroad. We watched prices for a few months and eventually found a great deal on a hybrid car, which got great gas mileage. Given gas prices in California are quite expensive, the more fuel-efficient the car, the more money you will save. We could have gotten an all-electric for cheap; however, with the amount of driving we did, we would have spent a lot of our trip charging up. If you’re not going too far on your road trip, then an electric car might be a great option.
Waze and Google Maps are your friends. We like Waze for traffic but we use Google Maps to search areas and create lists of things we might want to see. For visiting remote locations, which we did frequently, download maps beforehand or use a reliable GPS. You will find a seemingly endless amount of steep and winding roads in some places, especially off the main highways. Just remember to take it slow and be cautious around those curves.
Spontaneity is one of the joys of traveling and we can confirm that rings true for northern California. So many things, especially nature, caught our eye and led us on a happy detour. Just make sure you’re prepared before heading off for adventure!
Golden Gate Bridge
Whether you’re staying in San Francisco or immediately leaving the city, you can’t miss the Golden Gate Bridge. Note that there is a toll heading south into San Francisco but not going north as of our visit in September 2023.
The bridge itself has an onsite visitor center that teaches a bit about the history of the bridge. You can also skip the visitor center to take in the views and walk on foot across the bridge. There are several walking paths around the bridge that are fun to explore as well.
If views of the bay and the bridge are what you’re looking for, there are several places you can drive to that won’t disappoint. There were unbeatable views from the Batteries to Bluffs Trail and parking was easy and free. We visited early in the morning so be aware of what time you’re visiting and take crowds/parking into account.
If you want to stay a while, check out the official Golden Gate Bridge website for more information.
Getting to Northern California: Highway 101 or Highway 1?
The answer is both! While Highway 1 is more scenic in our opinion, especially with the shimmering blue Pacific to the west, both offer a great route to get north and back. Each route has its pros and cons. Highway 1 from San Francisco will take you only as far as the Leggett, where it eventually meets up with highway 101 anyway, so plan your route accordingly.
Highway 101 was our choice for heading north because it was the faster route and we had a long drive to make to our Airbnb for our first night in northern California. Returning south at the end of our trip, we chose Highway 1 because we weren’t in a rush and stopped at any vista we pleased.
These two highways transport you to two different worlds, so we highly recommend driving both of them to experience the best of northern California.
Avenue of the Giants
Turn off of Highway 101 and cruise through one of the most scenic forest drives you’ll ever take. The Avenue of the Giants is around 30 miles and is easily accessible from Highway 101, whether heading north or south. Leave plenty of time to explore this famous avenue because you’ll want to pull over every few minutes to appreciate your surroundings. Not a bad idea to pack a lunch or have some snacks on hand.
Our journey through the avenue was north to south and took around three hours due to all the stops but it can take as little as 45 minutes without stopping.
Thankfully, there are a lot of pull-offs to park your car so you can get out and admire these giant trees at your leisure. Our visit took place in early September and crowds weren’t bad; we were there from late morning to early afternoon. If you’re visiting during summer then be mindful that there will be a lot more people around!
Check out some of these notable sites on the Avenue of the Giants
The Immortal Tree
This is a 1,000-year-old redwood that has withstood lightning, forest fires, and a massive flood in the 1960s. It’s a quick stop off the Avenue of the Giants and has a small convenience store nearby if you want to grab a quick bite or use the restroom.
Founders Tree in Founders Grove
Founders Grove has some of the tallest trees in the world for you to gaze upon. Learn about all the trees in a short half-mile loop and self-guided tour.
Shrine Drive Thru Tree
One of the many drive-through trees in the Redwoods area. We didn’t make it to this one but it’s a great option if you’ve always wanted to drive through a tree. We drove through Klamath Thru Tree (keep reading). After our experience, we’re not bummed we missed this but it’s one of those things that’s fun to say you’ve done. It’s not every day you drive through a tree.
Any of the Groves
The entire Avenue of the Giants is filled with pull-offs and groves to explore. Take your pick! We couldn’t stop at them all but there isn’t one that would disappoint. Whatever you’re feeling up to on your own itinerary, any stop along the Avenue of the Giants’ groves will be a treat. The handful of groves we did pull off at were our most memorable stops along the avenue!
Hiking
Hiking trails are numerous in northern California, so you’ll have your pick along your road trip. Our hikes of choice were located in the Redwood National and State Parks, namely the Prairie Creek State Park. There are two breathtaking trails located here: James Irvine Trail and Fern Canyon. Both trails connect so you can complete them in one outing, depending on your plans. Even better, Gold Bluffs Beach awaits at the end so you’ve got the perfect spot to rest for lunch or a sunset.
James Irvine and Fern Canyon Trail
The James Irvine trail is a moderate hike with regard to intensity, but it is a long one so you need to make sure you have plenty of water and food for your journey. Also ensure you begin early enough. It’s 4.5 miles from the Prairie Creek Visitor Center and ends at Fern Canyon, which is another roughly 0.5 mile hike. So, out and back, you’re looking at a 10 mile day. We started our hike around 10 am and returned to the visitor center around 4:30. That included hiking the entire James Irvine, Fern Canyon, and lunch with a brief rest on Gold Bluffs Beach. While trekking James Irvine, you will experience absolute silence. Besides the occasional falling branch, bird or trickling stream, we only heard the sound of our feet. Every turn you take is a gem of a photo. Seriously, one of the most enchanting hikes we’ve done on three continents!
At the end of James Irvine, Fern Canyon begins. This trail was featured in Jurassic Park. There are options to drive to Fern Canyon and just do this hike but if you love nature and want to really experience some redwoods, James Irivine is for you. For information on Fern Canyon and parking near the trailhead, read up on the National Park Service’s Fern Canyon guide.
For official information on James Irvine, read up on the National Park Service’s James Irvine guide. It’s always a good idea to check the official park website before you visit, so that you’re up to date with any closures or changes that might affect your day! They’ll also provide parking information and tons of other helpful info.
Lady Bird Johnson Grove
Perhaps James Irvine is too long for your road trip but you still want to appreciate the redwoods with a solid walk. If so, then Lady Bird Johnson Grove is your trail! This trail is a short 1.5 mile loop that isn’t too difficult but offers up stunning, up-close views of giant redwoods.
The drive up to the trailhead is a joy in itself. We experienced some fog on our drive to the trailhead, passing through Humboldt Lagoons State Park and the scenic “Ocean by the Road.” It was a beautiful morning!
Check official info from the National Park Service for Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail before you go. You’ll learn about the trail itself as well as Lady Bird Johnson and her conservation effort.
King Range National Conservation Area and Black Sands Beach
This is arguably our favorite spot in all of northern California. Its remoteness and unique landscape offered up the perfect place to enjoy a packed lunch. Granted, the bear warning signs were a little scary but that’s why it’s important to pack out and leave no trace.
Starting from Garberville, which lies along Highway 101, make your way to Shelter Cove. The roughly 25-mile drive will take you quite a while as there are tons of sharp turns and steep ups and downs. The end result is worth it, however. The Bureau of Land Management states there are 68,000 acres of untouched wilderness to explore.
During our short afternoon, we walked along part of the Lost Coast Trail, appreciating the waves crashing on one side and forested ridges on the other. If you’re into backpacking, check out info on the Lost Coast Trail.
Be aware of tides If walking along the shoreline and, as many signs say, don’t turn your back on the ocean.
We only just scratched the surface of this pristine area and there’s a ton to do here. We had no plans to visit before arriving in northern California so in hindsight we didn’t have as much time as we would have liked. If this sounds like something you’d enjoy, stay a while and let us know how it goes!
For all official information on King Range, visit BLM’s official website.
Before you go…grab a sandwich!
There’s a great sandwich shop in Garberville, Amilia’s, which we brought with us to King Range. One sandwich consisted of turkey, pesto, and cranberries on focaccia and the other was a curry chicken salad. Delicious! Even if you’re not going to King Range and are just passing by on Highway 101, Amilia’s is a great stop for a tasty bite while traveling through. There are gas stations nearby as well if you’re looking to stretch your legs and refuel or charge up.
Stargazing in Northern California
One of the goals of our northern California road trip was to enjoy the night sky. There’s a perfect spot for stargazing in Prairie Creek State Park along the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway. It’s a worthwhile drive that you should take regardless of if you’re stargazing or not. It’s an easy on and off road from highway 101 and leads to some trail heads as well. In addition to enjoying the drive in the daylight, we returned late one night and parked near the visitor center. It’s situated in a large valley and there were great spots to pull off and set up our camera. Having been to a few dark sky national parks, the sky in Prairie Creek in early September proved to be one of the best we’ve experienced.
If you like to stargaze, be sure and check a dark site map to see how good your chances are of seeing a sky full of stars. Keep in mind the moon phase!
Beaches, Sunsets, Vistas, and Pull-Offs
We could write in great detail about each stop we made but have decided to compile a quick reference for you that lists our favorite beaches, sunsets and views of northern California. The following are not in any specific order but are located near the Redwoods National Park. Utilizing highway 101, you can get from place to place pretty quickly! Your road trip itinerary likely differs from ours but we’re highlighting these locations because we think they deserve a stop, no matter the time of day.
Vista Point McKinleyville
What we thought was just another great vista turned into the perfect place to see some seals! You can park your car and walk down to the shore (you can do this at so many places). Along our way, a fellow traveler stopped us to ask if we saw the seals. Sure enough, there was a large group of seals sunbathing their morning away. We’re glad we brought binoculars!
Clam Beach County Park
Clam Beach had tons of room to spread out and appreciate the Pacific in peace. We really enjoyed that about a lot of the beaches we visited. They were quiet. Except for the crashing waves, of course. This beach is easy to reach from Highway 101 and you’ll see plenty of locals with their dogs or maybe some folks riding horses.
Moonstone Beach County Park
This beach is just south of Trinidad and being so near to our stay, it was an easy choice for a gorgeous sunset. A local and her playful dog enjoyed it with us. Don’t fret if you’re around during the day. It’s a fantastic beach to spend your morning or afternoon as well.
Endert Beach
Endert beach is the perfect stop for lunch. Before we started north one morning, we packed a lunch in hopes of enjoying a meal on the shore. It’s a short walk to the beach and the trail is well-marked. Take in the ocean view while sitting atop one of the many rocks and enjoy. Be sure to take your trash with you and leave no trace! Note that the Crescent Beach Overlook parking leads to the trail to Endert beach
Centerville Beach County Park and Ferndale
Centerville beach lies a little off the beaten path but is a treasure to visit. We experienced another magical sunset (seeing a pattern here?) and walked along the shore before heading north. There’s a picturesque Victorian town, Ferndale, which you’ll drive through on the way to/from the beach. We had no idea about the town but loved our drive through it and wished we could have stayed. If you want to take a longer look than we did, read more about it at Visit Ferndale. (https://www.visitferndale.com/victorian-village )
Klamath Thru Tree
We saw this listed on a lot of “things to do” in the redwoods area so we gave it a go. It was fun but definitely not a big deal if you miss it. The tree was a very tight fit and we drove a smaller car so be mindful of that. If there’s a line of cars in front of you, we don’t recommend waiting around. There are plenty of more amazing things to do elsewhere. During our visit we were the only car around in the late afternoon so we were done in a few minutes. No one was manning the window and the entry fee was based on an honor system. Don’t be that guy.
Humboldt Lagoons State Park
This easy-to-reach park lies just off the Redwood Highway (101) and offers a wonderful blend of ocean and mountains. We experienced heavy fog for a bit on our morning drive north through the area and pulled over to experience the mystical-like coast as the sun rose higher. There are some toilets at the end of one of the parking areas on the south side of the park. The drive from here northward is scenic for many miles! You might even see some seals or elk in the area.
Highway 1 with a Stop in Bodega Bay
On the day we drove Highway 1, the only thing on our itinerary was to arrive at our next stay in Sonoma, so we had the entire day to do as we pleased.
We went at our own pace and stopped at practically every scenic turn-off (there are so many). Sometimes we would pull around a curve and see some thick fog slowly drifting along in front of us. Having a mix of low fog, blue ocean and bright sun made for some spectacular views of the coast.
We had no idea when we first arrived but Bodega Bay would turn out to be one of our favorite stops on our northern California road trip.
What to do in Bodega Bay: kayaking, great seafood, and a little cinema history
Kayaking – On an overcast morning, we visited Bodega Bay Kayak and rented two singles for a couple of hours, venturing out into the bay. It didn’t take long before we came upon a napping sea lion and a lot of seals! Enjoying the bit of wildlife in the scenic bay was the perfect way to start our day.
Seafood Lunch – Any form of physical activity is a great excuse to indulge and refuel and the Spud Point Crab Company was our spot for lunch. There was a bit of a line and parking at the restaurant itself was minimal, but additional parking is a short walk away. The menu is simple and delicious with just a handful of seafood treasures.
We tried the crab sandwich and shrimp sandwich, as well as shared their raved-about clam chowder. Even if you don’t get some physical activity before you’re in town, be sure and grab a bite here while cruising Highway 1!
Cinema History – Lastly, Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds was shot here and there’s even a cafe paying homage to that. While not our favorite Hitchcock film (see Lifeboat or North by Northwest), we still appreciated the tidbits we stumbled upon.
Some notable sites from The Birds you can check out yourself are the schoolhouse, The Tides Wharf & Restaurant, and St. Teresa of Avila Church.
Wanting some coffee for the road out of Bodega Bay, we found Captain Davey’s Ice Cream and Espresso Bar, which was a delightful pick-me-up. While waiting for our coffees to be made, we saw a signed autograph by Tippi Hedron and lots of facts about the movie and Bodega Bay. A fun stop.
Wine Country
The countryside of Sonoma reminded us of Sicily with a brown and golden glow everywhere we looked. Then over the next hill, the valley would be suddenly swallowed up by fog. We’re not certain this is a year-round event but September was a great time to visit as the land was enchanted by both the fog and bright, California sun.
Following several days of nature, Sonoma was a great place to unwind at the end of our trip. Glen Ellen is the town where we stayed, cozying up in a guest house with a hot tub. Needless to say, it was hard to leave this place!
There are too many wineries to choose from. But is that a bad thing? We recommend searching for wineries that serve up your favorite grape or tell a story that speaks to you and starting there. Some offer some great food options in addition to a wine tasting, but if you’re on any sort of a budget, it will be harder to find something your wallet likes.
We enjoyed a tasting at St. Francis Winery and Vineyards, more because of location and convenience but also because we appreciated the St. Francis nature theme. Following the tasting, which was just the two of us enjoying the view, we wandered around the vineyard and tasted a few grapes straight from the vine.
With that said, if you have extra spending money and want to visit multiple wineries, there are several tour options. Some even have creative modes of transportation to get you from place to place, like VW Vans, bikes, and trolleys. If we had more time in the area, we would have liked to do a tour of more vineyards, both big and small. But that’s a reason to return!
Thanks for stopping by!
Thank you for reading our post about traveling in northern California. We hope you get to visit and we really hope you found something that will help you have a great experience too. Happy travels!
