New York City is the main draw when people think of visiting New York but the Finger Lakes region of upstate deserves its own hype. We spent three days traveling to the Finger Lakes around Seneca and Cayuga lakes, hiking to the base of a 200-foot waterfall, tasting honey straight from someone who could talk about bees and honey all day,, sitting on a winery patio that rivaled ones we’ve visited in Europe, and eating ice cream made from duck eggs. Here’s exactly how we spent our three days in the Finger Lakes in mid-June, plus what we’d do differently if we returned.
Day 1: Albany to Cayuga Lake
We flew into Rochester late the night before (landing around midnight), picked up our rental car, and grabbed a short night at a hotel before hitting the road early the next morning for the drive to Ithaca. On the way in, we made a quick stop at the Taughannock Falls overlook, which gave us our first glimpse of the massive waterfall we’d hike to the base of the following day. It’s a great little preview if you’re driving in from that direction.
Cornell University & the Botanical Gardens
We got into Ithaca mid-morning and, since we’re the type of travelers who like to wander a college campus when we’re in a college town, we swung by Cornell before hunting down brunch. Surprisingly, we found it a little tricky to navigate. The campus is beautiful in pockets, but it’s spread out and woven into the city in a way that makes it hard to just park somewhere and stroll through. We might have just approached it wrong, but parking near the heart of campus wasn’t easy to find for visitors.
We ended up parking near the Cornell Botanical Gardens instead, and that turned out to be the right call. If you’re at all into gardens, it’s worth the stop. There were lush herb and flower gardens that were well-kept, and a nice quiet contrast to the campus bustle. We would’ve explored a bit more, but a big storm was approaching (thankfully it never touched down), and we decided to get moving.
cornellbotanicgardens.org
124 Comstock Knoll Dr, Ithaca, NY 14850
Lunch at Lev Kitchen
We ducked into Lev Kitchen in downtown Ithaca just as the sky opened up. Perfect timing as we got to sit out a genuine downpour over a really good meal. We ordered a schnitzel mushroom malawach and a za’atar chicken malawach, along with a couple of local ciders. Both malawach were excellent, and it turned out to be one of our favorite meals of the trip. A pleasant surprise. We highly recommend it if you’re in Ithaca!
222 E State St, Ithaca, NY 14850
Honey Tasting at the Honeybee Embassy
After lunch, we followed Cayuga Lake north, and the drive alone was worth it, scenic in every direction. Our first stop was the Honeybee Embassy, a small honey shop sitting out in a field of native flowers and grasses at a quiet four-way intersection. We tried more honey varieties than we can count, and the person working the counter clearly loved bees. She could talk about honey and bee behavior for as long as you’d let her. We walked out with a jar of aster honey and a jar of their Cacao Kapow, a habanero-and-cocoa-bits honey.
4061 Swamp College Rd, Trumansburg, NY 14886
Two Wineries: One to Skip, One We Loved
Cayuga Lake has no shortage of wineries, and we happened to visit two back to back that could not have been more different.
The first, Sheldrake Point, has a pretty property near the water, though the views weren’t as strong as we expected. Note that we visited on a quiet Thursday afternoon, which may not be representative of more frequented days, but the wine and atmosphere didn’t do much for us. The staff were genuinely kind and eager to please, but this wasn’t one we would recommend to others.
On the hunt for a different experience, we drove north to Six Eighty Cellars, and it completely changed our impression of the day. This one is up there with some of our favorite wineries, including ones we’ve visited in Europe and California. Our host was knowledgeable and patient. The tasting, which came with a simple but delicious charcuterie, felt like real value. The patio overlooks the lake in a way that stops you in your tracks. After the tasting, we grabbed a glass and took it to sit in their Adirondack chairs. We took our time enjoying the wine on a hill overlooking the scenic lake. It was a blustery day with wind watches in effect but we didn’t want to leave.
3050 Swick Rd, Ovid, NY 14521
Trumansburg & Our Airbnb
We spent the night at a small farmstay-style Airbnb tucked off the beaten path near Trumansburg, and after settling in and walking the property, we headed back into town for dinner: a pizza from New York Pizzeria to take back to the Airbnb and unwind. While we waited for the New York-style pie, we popped into Garrett’s Brewing Company next door for a local beer and caught some early World Cup action. There was live music and it was a fun way to kill twenty minutes.
Trumansburg, like just about every small town we passed through in the Finger Lakes, is quietly charming: historic buildings at every turn, without feeling like it’s trying to sell you anything. That seemed to be the theme of upstate New York’s small towns in general. Everything was green and lush; if you’re picturing a summer road trip through rolling hills and lake views, that’s exactly what this looked like.
Day 2: Watkins Glen & Seneca Lake
After a quiet night under the stars at our Airbnb near Trumansburg, we woke up ready to swap Cayuga Lake for Seneca Lake. Day two turned out to be our busiest yet with waterfalls, wineries, a birding stop, and some seriously good ice cream.
Watkins Glen State Park
We started the day at Tobey’s Donuts, where we got a cheese, egg, and bacon sandwich on sourdough, a Bismarck donut, and coffee. We ate the sandwich before setting out and packed the donut and coffee along for the hike. If staying in or passing through Watkins Glen, this is a great spot for an early bite!
137 E 4th St, Watkins Glen, NY 14891
Watkins Glen’s Gorge Trail (out) and North Rim Trail (back) took us about two hours total, and it’s an easy hike overall with some steep stairs at points, but nothing that would stop anyone with reasonable fitness. We saw kids and older adults doing it just fine. The one thing we’d change for this trek: start earlier. We began around 8:30 a.m. and it was already pretty crowded, with lines forming for photos at the popular spots. If you can start at sunrise or go later in the day after the crowds have dispersed, do it.
We took a short detour across the suspension bridge to the South Rim Trail just to see the lily pond, and passed a small, old cemetery along the North Rim Trail with headstones dating back to the early 1800s. We admired it from the trail rather than walking through.
1009 N Franklin St, Watkins Glen, NY 14891
Hector Falls
From Watkins Glen we drove to Hector Falls, which sits right along the highway. We missed it on the first pass and had to turn around, eventually finding parallel parking nearby. The waterfall is stunning, but we wouldn’t recommend lingering; semis can fly by on that road and it doesn’t feel like the safest spot to hang around for long. That said, it’s definitely worth a quick stop!
42.41818911962071, -76.86631066323946
A Birding Viewpoint Over Seneca Lake
Nearby, we found a small birdwatching spot that doubled as a gorgeous high-up viewpoint over Seneca Lake, complete with stationary binoculars for scanning the area. We used the Merlin app to identify birds by sound and picked up several species we’d never heard before, spotting a few of them along the way. The whole area was scenic, with beautiful homes dotting the hillside.
4071 Satterly Hill Rd, Burdett, NY 14818
Lunch at Tabora Farm and Winery
The drive to Tabora Farm and Winery gave us Seneca Lake views the entire way, even though the winery itself sits back from the water. We had great sandwiches and a glass of dry rosé on their patio, and the on-site garden made it a relaxing lunch stop.
4978 Lakemont-Himrod Rd, Dundee, NY 14837
Spotted Duck Creamery
Spotted Duck makes its ice cream from duck eggs, and it’s noticeably creamier than what you’d get from a standard shop. We got the four-flavor scoop flight: blueberry lavender, cookies and cream (made with real chocolate chip cookies), vanilla crème, and strawberry rhubarb. Every flavor was excellent. You can also visit and feed the ducks on-site with food the shop provides, which makes it a fun, low-key stop.
999 NY-54, Penn Yan, NY 14527
A Detour to Lively Run Goat Dairy
Our original plan was to hike the Taughannock Falls Gorge Trail next, but we accidentally started on the wrong trail. Rather than backtrack we made a quick change to our plans to visit a nearby goat farm instead. Lively Run Goat Dairy let us see, pet, and (for a few dollars) feed their goats, plus try a sampler of goat, cow, and sheep cheeses. It’s a cute, easy stop, and you can pick up cheese, goat milk lotion, goat milk soap, and other products to take home.
8978 Co Rd 142, Interlaken, NY 14847
Taughannock Falls Gorge Trail
By the time we got to the actual Taughannock Falls trailhead, a storm was rolling in. While we were putting on our rain jackets in the parking lot, we watched a wave of people streaming back toward their cars. We started out anyway, hiked through a downpour that let up quickly, and had the trail almost to ourselves, just a few other small groups near the falls. The waterfall at the end is enormous and awe-inspiring. On our way back out, we passed at least 50 people heading in, which told us just how packed that trail must have been right before the storm hit. Lesson learned again: go early or go late. We got lucky with the timing, but we wouldn’t count on that luck twice.
1738 NY-89, Trumansburg, NY 14886
Dinner at Stonecat Cafe
We cleaned up and had dinner at Stonecat Cafe, an organic restaurant that’s really all about the view from its patio. It started out windy, rainy, and cold enough that we had to move away from our table bordering the railing, but it cleared into a beautiful sunset by the time we finished.
The staff were great, the food was excellent, and while it’s not a cheap night out, it’s the kind of splurge that’s worth having while in the gorgeous countryside of upstate New York. They provide blankets and pillows if you’re sitting outside, which we appreciated given the weather.
5315 NY-414, Hector, NY 14841
Ending the Day By the Campfire
We closed out the night back at the Airbnb with a campfire, letting a few hours pass as the stars came out.
None of what we did on Day 2 were really “hikes” in the technical sense, more like scenic walks, but the payoff at each one was well worth it. If there’s one thing we’d tell anyone planning a similar day: go early. We visited in June, so crowd levels may vary by season, but it’s a safe rule of thumb no matter when you go.
Day 3: Ithaca Wrap-Up
Our last morning came faster than we wanted it to. We packed up the Airbnb, said goodbye to the countryside, and headed back into Ithaca for one final morning before starting the drive to our next destination. First stop: a free birding walk at the Cornell Lab of Ornithology.
Birding at the Cornell Lab of Ornithology
We started our last morning with a free birding walk hosted by the Cayuga Bird Club at the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. Our guide was so kind and knowledgeable, walking our small group through the Lab’s wooded and wetland areas and pointing out species we’d never seen before, including an Eastern Phoebe and a Pileated Woodpecker.
It’s a welcoming group, whether you’re a serious birder or just curious. They’ll even loan you a pair of binoculars if you didn’t bring your own. . The walk was advertised as 90 minutes but ran closer to two hours for us. We’d recommend building in extra time and if you can, budgeting even more time afterward for the visitor center, which is packed with exhibits we didn’t get to fully appreciate.
159 Sapsucker Woods Rd, Ithaca, NY 14850
Ithaca Farmers Market
We closed out the trip at the Ithaca Farmers Market, picking up local food and coffee for the road. You’ll find tons of local goods here, including a variety of cuisines, produce, coffee, and treats, all lined up along the shoreline. It was a relaxed, feel-good way to end our time in the Finger Lakes. Without a doubt the best farmers market we’ve visited.
Steamboat Landing, 545 3rd St, Ithaca, NY 14850
Tips for Planning Your Own Finger Lakes Trip
- Start early, always. Watkins Glen and Taughannock Falls were both dramatically more crowded later in the morning or early afternoon. If you can be on the trail by sunrise (or hike later in the evening), do it.
- Give yourself room to improvise. Some of our favorite stops, like Lively Run Goat Dairy or Six Eighty Cellars, happened because our original plan didn’t quite work out.
- Not every winery on the list needs a stop. If one isn’t doing it for you, there’s always another one just up the road. There are so many wineries in this region it’s overwhelming. Do your research and see what fits your vibe.
- Bring a rain jacket even on a sunny forecast. We got rained on more than once but it never lasted long.
- Pack a swimsuit or a change of clothes if you plan to get near waterfalls. The trails and lookouts get misty and if you want to take a dip, come prepared!
Frequently Asked Questions
Three days was enough to get a satisfying taste of the Seneca and Cayuga lake areas. A couple of waterfall hikes, a few wineries, and some food stops without feeling rushed. You could easily stretch it to four or five days if you want to add the other Finger Lakes, like Keuka or Skaneateles, or slow down the pace. There’s also activities on the actual lakes, like kayaking or sailing. Adding extra time just for lake time would be a great idea. Let’s be honest: we did not want to leave on day three.
Early morning, ideally right at opening, or later in the evening. Both trails got noticeably crowded by mid-morning on our visit in June.
It’s an easy-to-moderate hike. There are some steep sections of stairs, but nothing that requires technical hiking experience. We saw children and older adults completing it without issue though the steep sections of stairs were tough going for a few.
Yes. Most of what we visited, like the wineries, waterfalls, and small towns, are spread out along the lakes and not walkable or bikeable between stops.
We flew into Rochester and rented a car, but Syracuse and Ithaca are also common gateway airports depending on which part of the Finger Lakes you’re headed to. However you get in, plan on renting a car. You’ll need it to get between towns, wineries, and trailheads.
