New Zealand is one of those places that doesn’t really need a hook. The landscapes do all the work. We spent two weeks and over 2,000 miles road-tripping across the South Island with a couple of days on the North Island to top it off. Our two week itinerary included national parks, small towns, beaches, fjords, and just about every kind of landscape you can think of. We hiked, kayaked, stargazed, ate too many bakery pies, and stayed on a few farms. We also visited a handful of Lord of the Rings filming locations along the way, partly because we’re fans, but mostly because the same landscapes that drew Peter Jackson to film there are the ones that make New Zealand worth visiting in the first place.
This post walks through our whole New Zealand itinerary: where we went, what we saw, what we’d recommend, and what we’d do differently. It’s a real account of how we spent our 2 weeks, with plenty of practical info if you want to follow some or all of the same route.
If you’re planning your own trip and want the practical side of things, like driving and rental cars, when to go, and what to book, we covered all of that in a separate post: How to Plan a Trip to New Zealand.
Our New Zealand Itinerary at a Glance
Here’s the full route we took, broken down by region.
Days 1–4 — Golden Bay & Nelson (top of the South Island)
A quiet, rural start to the trip. Wharariki Beach, ocean kayaking, an alpaca farm stay, and Wainui Falls.
Days 4–8 — Canterbury (South Island)
Lake Tekapo, Mt John Summit, the Hooker Lake hike at Mount Cook, Mount Sunday, and a Valentine’s Day we’ll always remember.
Days 8–12 — Queenstown, Arrowtown & Glenorchy (South Island)
The drive south with stops at the Clay Cliffs and lunch in Cromwell, a hike up to Lake Alta, then a few days based in Queenstown for wine tours by bike, Doubtful Sound, exploring Arrowtown, and a full day in the Paradise area near Glenorchy.
Days 12–14 — Fly to Auckland, drive to Raglan, Hobbiton & Tongariro National Park (North Island)
A beautiful beach, the breakfast tour at Hobbiton, then south to Tongariro for waterfalls, a drive up the mountain (Mordor), and a couple of nights spent stargazing in a wood-fired hot tub.
This New Zealand itinerary covers both islands, so we wanted to share a note on direction: we landed in Auckland, immediately flew to Nelson, worked our way south through the South Island, then flew back to the North Island for the final stretch. The short version of why is that flying between regions saved us multiple days of driving and let us spend more time at the places themselves.
Days 1–4: Golden Bay & Nelson
We landed in Auckland after a long flight, picked up our bags, and immediately got back on a plane to Nelson at the top of the South Island. Being a regional flight, there was no security and we walked straight onto the plane. We were on the ground in Nelson before we’d fully processed what time zone we were in.
From there, we picked up our rental car and drove out to Golden Bay, our base for the start of our trip. Golden Bay sits in the far northwest corner of the South Island. It’s pristine, quiet, and a little off the standard tourist track, which is exactly why we loved it so much.
Where We Stayed
Our Airbnb in Golden Bay was a small farm run by a couple. They had alpacas we could feed, plus chickens and ducks wandering the property. Breakfast was served on their patio overlooking the nearby field. They also had a wood-fired hot tub, which we used both nights while looking up at the stars. It took us a minute to figure out how to start the fire to heat up the tub but our host was more than willing to help if we needed it.
Stays like our rural Airbnb with hosts who care about the property and provide first-rate hospitality, were consistently the best accommodation choice we made on the entire trip. If you can swing it, skip the hotels and look for something rural and personal.
What We Did
Wharariki Beach — You might recognize Wharariki Beach without knowing the name. It was a famous Windows screensaver, with unique rock arches rising out of the sand. It’s worth the trip just to explore the shore, but the real highlight for us was the seals. Seals were on full display in the on-and-off rain. You can watch them from a short distance without disturbing them. We spent a long time just sitting and watching. It’s one of the most striking beaches we’ve ever been to.
Be careful when venturing into nooks and caves, we stumbled across sleeping seals while exploring the coast. Keep an eye out and keep a respectful distance.
Ocean kayaking with Golden Bay Kayaks — We did a half-day ocean kayak tour with Golden Bay Kayaks and would do it again in a heartbeat. The water was calm, the coastline was stunning, and we saw more seals. We highly recommend it if you’re spending time in the area. The coastline of lush green against that striking blue water is worth a good, long look. We liked this company because they provided you with everything you needed: tips, gear, and clear (entertaining) instructions on how to have a good kayak trip. They even gave us tips on local sights and food. Check them out if you’re in the area.
Wainui Falls — A short, easy hike through native bush to a waterfall, this is perfect for a half-day stretch of the legs without committing to anything strenuous. Worth doing if you’re already in the area. Some cows greeted us as we finished. We thought they were, at least. They were more interested in the farmer with the food driving up behind us.
What We Ate
- Totos Café & Pizzeria — our favorite meal in Golden Bay; the kind of pizza you don’t expect to find in a small rural town. Mixed with the view, it’s a must.
- Mussel Inn — lunch stop on our Wharariki Beach day; try the mussels or one of their refreshing brewed beers
- Bay Take Away — fish and chips done right, which was exactly what we wanted after a long day outdoors
A Note for LOTR Fans
Takaka Hill, the hill you drive over to reach Golden Bay, was used as Chetwood Forest in Fellowship of the Ring (the area where the hobbits flee after leaving the Shire). We drove over it twice without realizing. If you’re a fan, plan a short stop on the way in or out to walk through that section.
Quick Tips for Golden Bay & Nelson
- Fly into Nelson if you can — saves a full day of driving from Auckland or Christchurch, which are where most international travelers land
- Rent a smaller car for this leg — Golden Bay roads are narrow and winding and a big vehicle isn’t necessary but you may still want AWD
- Book Airbnbs early — Golden Bay has limited accommodation and good properties go fast
- Allow at least 3 nights — it’s far enough out from the main tourist spots that a quick stop doesn’t do it justice
- Bring layers — even in summer, the coast can be windy, cool, and rainy, especially at night
Days 4–8: Canterbury
After our time in Golden Bay was up (so sad), we flew to Christchurch from Nelson. Like our flight into Nelson, the regional airport experience was easy and the time savings over driving were significant. With more days on the trip, we would have driven this leg to see the Marlborough wine region and the Kaikoura coast. With two weeks in the country, flying was the right call.
In Christchurch, we picked up our second rental car of the trip and made the drive straight to Mount Sunday, our first major LOTR stop and one of the highlights of the entire trip. From there, we worked our way through the Mackenzie region of Canterbury, basing ourselves within a 30 minute drive of Lake Tekapo for the next several nights.
Where We Stayed
Our Airbnb in this region was a dairy farm near Fairlie, with mountain views in every direction. Remote, peaceful, and just a short drive into town. Fairlie itself is small but punches above its weight in one specific category: pies.
Like Golden Bay, we’d recommend looking for a rural Airbnb or quaint B&B in a less populated area over a hotel. The Mackenzie region in particular has a lot of small properties tucked into the landscape and it allows you to escape the tourist-packed areas like Lake Tekapo.
What We Did
Mount Sunday — The drive from Christchurch to Mount Sunday is long. It ends on a gravel road through farmland, with sheep and cow crossings and wide-open valleys the whole way. Mount Sunday itself is a small, flat-topped hill rising out of the Rangitata Valley, surrounded by the Southern Alps. It’s where the village of Edoras was built for the Two Towers, and the resemblance to the films is striking. The set was dismantled after filming, but the location is unmistakable.
You park at the base, cross a small bridge, and walk up to the top. It’s not a difficult hike, but the wind can be intense. We spent close to an hour at the summit just taking it in. If you visit one LOTR location on this trip, make it this one. If you’re not a fan but love nature, then we still recommend it. It was breathtaking in February and we assume it is any time of year.
Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo — A small stone church on the shore of Lake Tekapo, made famous for both its setting and its role as one of the most photographed buildings in New Zealand. Visit early in the morning or late at night for the best light and the fewest crowds. The area around the church is also a designated dark sky reserve, which makes the late-night version a win-win.
Mt John Summit Circuit & Astro Cafe — A moderate hike that climbs from the lakeshore up to the summit of Mt John, where you’ll find both an observatory and the Astro Cafe, arguably the most scenic coffee stop in New Zealand. We started near Tekapo Springs, which puts you in the wooded, shaded section first, with the open lakeside section as the descent. We’d actually recommend the reverse: start along the lake and finish in the shade. It’s also possible to drive to the top and because of this Astro Cafe gets pretty busy by mid-morning, so arrive early. You cannot beat the views of Lake Tekapo from this spot.
Try for Penguins in Timaru — After our Mt John hike, it was midday and we wanted to find something coastal to round out the day. We’d read that Timaru, about an hour east, was a possible spot to see Little Blue Penguins. We drove out on a whim.
Unfortunately, we timed it wrong. The best chances to see the penguins are at dawn and dusk, and we arrived in the middle of a sunny afternoon. We did park and walk along the shore for a bit, but that was all. We would have had to wait several hours until dusk, so we drove on. Noting it here so that you can plan better and actually get to see them. If you want to take a look remotely, the Timaru District Council has penguin cams on their website.
On the way to Timaru along State Highway 8, you pass through Pleasant Point, a small town with an interesting train museum featuring older steam engines you can ride in. We didn’t stop, but noting it in case you’re interested!
Hooker Lake hike at Aoraki/Mount Cook — This is probably the most rewarding easy difficulty hike in New Zealand. The trail follows the valley floor with the Southern Alps rising on either side and Aoraki/Mount Cook ahead of you the whole way. The hike ends at Hooker Lake, a glacial lake that you’re able to get in if you dare. Heed the caution signs about the almost freezing cold water but feel free to get your legs in like we did or fully submerge like we saw some brave souls do. The whole hike is around six miles out and back and mostly flat. We did it on Valentine’s Day and it remains one of our favorite hikes anywhere. While perched on a rock eating lunch, we heard a deep rumble in the distance and our eyes caught some ice falling off the glacier into the lake at the last second.
Quick Tips for Hooker Lake hike at Aoraki/Mount Cook
- There isn’t reliable water on the trail, so fill up before you start. There was a water filling station near the trailhead when we visited.
- Be sure to go early or late. We started later than planned, around 10am and the trail was crowded but not crazy on the way in. On the way out, there were tons of people heading toward the lake.
- Once you reach the lake, you can spread out and find a nice lunch spot on some rocks if you don’t mind scrambling a little bit. Wear sunscreen!
Regardless of the trail you’re on, always check New Zealand DOC for the most updated trail information.
Lavender Farm and Afternoon Tea — NZ Alpine Lavender, on the same road as the Hooker Lake trail, is one of the largest certified organic lavender farms in the Southern Hemisphere. The lavender ice cream they’re famous for is worth pulling the car over for a bit. Even if you’re not into lavender, the rows of purple flowers with mountains in the distance is one of the most striking in the Mackenzie region. The farm is closed during winter, so plan accordingly.
We enjoyed Valentine’s Day afternoon tea at The Moraine. It’s a restaurant at Mt Cook Lakeside Retreat, a luxury lodge on the shore of Lake Pukaki with uninterrupted views across to Aoraki/Mount Cook. Ingredients are sourced from their own gardens and the surrounding region. The setting alone is worth the visit. It’s a splurge, but the kind worth saving for a special occasion. Book ahead to reserve your spot.
Pelennor Fields hike near Twizel — The site of the Pelennor Fields from Return of the King is on private land (part of Ben Ohau Station), but a public DOC track runs along the edge of it and gets you close enough to recognize the mountain backdrop from the films. It’s a short, flat walk and the views are stunning regardless of whether you’ve seen the movies.
A heads up: sand flies were heavy on this hike. Pack repellent before you go and consider long sleeves even in summer.
Alpine Stargazing — Lake Tekapo and the surrounding region are part of an international dark sky reserve, and the stargazing here is world-class. We did a guided tour with Silver River Stargazing and it was one of the most informative and well-run tours we’ve done. They provide parkas because the nights get cold even in summer. Book ahead and learn all about the night sky in the southern hemisphere.
Stargazing Quick Tip
We couldn’t help the timing of our trip but our stargazing was somewhat hampered by the brightness of the full moon. Check moon phases and moonrise/moonset times before booking to better plan your trip around stargazing.
What We Ate
- Fairlie Bakehouse — multiple visits over a single stay. The pies are everything people say they are. If you’re driving anywhere near Fairlie, stop here for a yummy bite. They have options for everyone! Sweet or savory, meat, fish or vegetarian and vegan pies are available!
- The Moraine and NZ Alpine Lavender — both detailed in the activities above; worth mentioning again because they’re that good.
Quick Tips for Canterbury
- Pelennor Fields trail has serious sand flies — pack repellent
- Visiting in summer? Look for lupine!
- Fill up your water bottles before any hike — trail water is unreliable
- Astro Cafe gets crowded fast — arrive early or be prepared to wait
- Stargazing tours sell out — book before you arrive in the area
- Mount Sunday is remote — give yourself a full half day to drive there, hike, and drive back; an AWD vehicle is helpful but not strictly required
- Watch your fuel gauge — gas stations between Christchurch and Mount Cook are sparse
Days 8–12: Queenstown, Arrowtown & Glenorchy
After our time in Canterbury, we made the drive south to Queenstown. It’s about a 3.5 hour drive without stops, but we’d recommend planning for a full day. The route is packed with worthwhile pull-offs and the scenery only gets more dramatic the further south you go.
The Drive South
Clay Cliffs — A short detour off the main highway near Omarama. The Clay Cliffs are tall, pale rock formations carved into spires and canyons by years of erosion. The access is on private land and operates on an honor system with a cash box at the gate. Bring a few NZ dollars in small bills. There’s a short hike that takes you up among the spires. Some of the footing is loose and steep in spots, but it’s well worth the stop. Plan for 30 minutes to an hour.
Cromwell — We stopped in Cromwell for lunch and ended up staying longer than planned. The old town has been restored along the riverbank and we grabbed pizza and local wine right by the water. People were swimming, picnicking, and letting their dogs run around. It felt less like a tourist stop and more like a town just doing its thing on a hot afternoon. We popped into a few of the shops to browse around and were sad to have missed a small farmer and crafts market that was packing up while we ate lunch.
Stone fruit stands — On the way out of Cromwell, we pulled over at a roadside fruit stand and bought a bag of peaches. The Central Otago region is known for its stone fruit, and the difference between a roadside peach in NZ and one from a US grocery store is significant. Stop if you see one.
Lake Alta hike — Tucked up in The Remarkables mountain range, Lake Alta is a small alpine lake that doubled briefly as Dimrill Dale in The Fellowship of the Ring (the scene just after the Fellowship escapes Moria). We chose to visit on our drive into Queenstown as it was just mid-day and we had plenty of time before check-in. The drive up to the trailhead is on a gravel road with some serious drop-offs and switchbacks. Slow down and take it carefully. The hike itself is short but uphill and rocky. Please stick to the trail. You’ll see signs informing you about the unique flora on the trail, but the plants that grow here have a hard enough time surviving the tough conditions. They don’t need to be trampled too.
The water of Lake Alta is ice cold and the setting feels like another planet. We put our legs in but couldn’t keep them in for very long. Perfect spot for lunch! Perch on a rock by the water side and enjoy. Just be sure to pack out what you brought in. Lake Alta is worth visiting whether or not you’re a fan of the films. If visiting in winter, this looks to be a popular skiing area so look into visiting regardless of season!
Where We Stayed
We stayed in a small guest house in Queenstown. It served its purpose as a base to explore the region, but didn’t stand out the same way as the farm stays elsewhere on the trip. Queenstown was the most tourist-heavy spot on our South Island adventure, and the accommodation reflects that. We also tried dinner in the main tourist area one night. Busy, expensive, and more of a party-crowd than we were looking for.
Where to stay Quick Tip
If you want a relaxed and memorable stay or meal, we recommend looking at small properties and restaurants in Arrowtown or smaller surrounding towns instead of central Queenstown.
What We Did
E-Bike Wine Tour — We rented e-bikes from Arrowtown Bike Hire and rode out to the Gibbston Valley wineries. The e-bikes were great. You cover real distance without getting completely wrecked, but the route was about 11 miles one way on a mix of gravel paths and rolling hills. Several tours offer return shuttles. We chose to bike both directions, which was a workout we hadn’t quite prepared for.
We made it to Gibbston Valley Winery and Restaurant and Peregrine Wines before deciding to turn around. Both were excellent. Peregrine in particular stood out with its interesting cellar architecture and a great tasting setup. We wished we’d had time for more, but the return ride wasn’t going to ride itself.
The route also takes you over the Kawarau Bridge, where the world’s first commercial bungee jump opened in 1988. You’ll see people jumping off it as you cycle past, which is its own kind of motivation.
Wine Tour Quick Tip
There are many wineries in this region you can bike to. If you want to visit more than we did, we recommend getting the shuttle back to Arrowtown from Gibbston or starting from Gibbston and going west where there’s a more concentrated number of wineries available to visit.
Arrowtown — Arrowtown became our favorite town in all of New Zealand. It’s a small historic town just outside Q›ueenstown with restored 19th-century buildings, great restaurants, and a quieter pace than Queenstown itself. We had dinner here twice, Mantra for excellent Indian after the bike ride, and CAVE, a snappy casual sushi restaurant, after our long day exploring Glenorchy and Paradise. We’d live here if we could!
The Arrow River, which runs through town, was used as the Ford of Bruinen in Fellowship of the Ring (where Arwen carries Frodo across the river and the Black Riders are washed away). The location is recognizable and accessible from a few different points along the river walk. If you’re not into the films, this scenic area is still worth your time.
We walked along Tobins Track, which is more or less a park along the Arrow River in Arrowtown. We found it to be a great place to cool off by dipping our feet in the water and walking the shady trail. We imagine in autumn that this area is absolutely stunning.
Doubtful Sound — We did the full-day tour from Te Anau, which is about a two-hour drive from Queenstown. We left early, grabbed breakfast from a roadside food truck along the way, The Coffee Bomb, near Garston (great coffee and breakfast rolls), and arrived in Te Anau in time for the tour. We used RealNZ for our Doubtful Sound experience and recommend!
Doubtful Sound is less famous than Milford Sound but, in our opinion, more rewarding. It’s deeper, quieter, and requires a boat transfer across Lake Manapouri plus a bus ride over a pass just to reach the sound itself. That logistical inconvenience keeps the crowds down. The tour itself was a wonderful experience: seals on the rocks, waterfalls, occasional misty (sometimes sideways) rain, and a short stretch where the captain cut the engine and let us experience total silence. One of the most memorable days of the trip. The weather varied from sunny skies, overcast and breezy, misty fog, to brief torrential downpours. Be prepared for anything!
Te Anau offered a lot of great eats but most restaurants were booked out or had hour plus long waits. We opted for a quiet dinner at the Mossburn Railway Hotel on the way back to Queenstown which was a lovely way to end the day.
Bob’s Cove Track and Nature Walk — We parked along Lake Wakatipu near Bob’s Cove, between Queenstown and Glenorchy, and walked the trail. It’s also a mountain bike trail, though we didn’t see any riders that morning.
Two LOTR locations are along this trail. Ithilien, where Sam and Gollum famously talk about potatoes and the trio see the oliphaunts, was a spitting image of the films. Amon Hen, on the other hand, seems to be off the trail somewhere. We never quite pinpointed it but got the gist. Worth doing for the trail and the views of Lake Wakatipu regardless.
Glenorchy & Paradise — The drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy follows Lake Wakatipu and is one of the most scenic stretches of road in the country. From Glenorchy, you continue out to Paradise, a remote valley used as the location for several Lord of the Rings scenes including Isengard, Lothlórien, and the spot where the Fellowship splits after Boromir’s death.
The Paradise forest looks exactly like it does in the films. Standing in those woods is one of the more memorable LOTR moments of the trip. The drive in is on a rough gravel road with a couple of small creek/rock crossings but it’s nothing crazy. We’d recommend a proper vehicle with some clearance just to be on the safe side. Sheep are everywhere. Drive slowly here. We had to wait for a few herds to cross the road. Great time to hop out and get some pics! We did see a LOTR tour guide leading a small group, which was a good sign we were in the right area.
We grabbed sandwiches to go from Bonnie Jean Restaurant in Glenorchy and ate by the lakeshore. Don’t miss the Glenorchy lagoon walk if you have an extra hour. It’s a flat boardwalk with mountain reflections that look almost too good to be real.
What We Ate
- Mantra, Arrowtown — excellent Indian. We dined here after our long bike tour. Thankfully we brought a change of clothes.
- CAVE, Arrowtown — great sushi after our Paradise day; Arrowtown really does have some great eats.
- Bonnie Jean Restaurant, Glenorchy — sandwiches to go before our Paradise drive; the kind of cozy local place we’d have happily sat down in for a proper meal.
- Mossburn Railway Hotel — dinner on the way back from Doubtful Sound; quiet, charming, exactly what we needed.
- Roadside fruit stand outside Cromwell — peaches to die for. But they have more than just peaches! You’ll find many fruit stands to choose from.
A Note for LOTR Fans
The Queenstown area had the most accessible LOTR filming locations in a single region. That’s why Queenstown was such a great base for us. Beyond what we mentioned above, the surrounding area was used for several other scenes that fans will recognize. We’ll be writing a dedicated filming locations guide that goes into more detail on each.
Quick Tips for Queenstown & Surrounds
- Skip central Queenstown for accommodation if you can — Arrowtown and Glenorchy are quieter and more memorable
- The road to Paradise has river/rock crossings — they’re shallow but a proper vehicle with clearance is recommended
- Book Doubtful Sound well ahead — these tours sell out in peak season
- Allow a full day for the drive from Tekapo — or wherever you’re coming from, if you want to stop along the way (you should)
- Arrowtown deserves more than a quick stop — plan to eat at least one meal there and take time to enjoy the small, quaint town
- The bike wine tour is a workout — consider a shuttle return unless you want the full ride and a tough workout. Don’t skip the e-bikes either. They are well worth the extra money
Days 12–14: Raglan, Hobbiton & Tongariro
Our last morning in Queenstown, we gassed up the truck, returned it, and flew back to Auckland for the final stretch of the trip. The contrast between the dramatic alpine landscapes of the South Island and the rolling green hills of the North Island is striking. Both are beautiful, but they don’t feel like the same country.
Where We Stayed
Our final accommodation was a guesthouse Airbnb about 15 minutes from Hobbiton, set out in the rolling Matamata countryside. The views from the property genuinely look like the Shire: green hills, scattered trees, and a quiet pace that matches the setting. The place had a wood-fired hot tub and clear views of the night sky, which was exploding with stars. It was the perfect way to close out the trip.
Day 12: Raglan
After landing in Auckland, we picked up our final rental car and drove west to Raglan, a small coastal town known for its sandy beaches and laid-back surf town vibe. We spent the late afternoon and evening here as we hadn’t really spent much time at a coastal spot.
Ngarunui Beach is the main draw, a long stretch of sand backed by green cliffs. We didn’t surf (it’s a serious surf destination), but the beach is perfect for walking and swimming, and watching the surfers ride the waves at sunset was its own kind of entertainment. The sunset at this beach was magical. We went for a swim and then strolled along the coast. New Zealand has wonders for all types of nature scattered about its two islands.
We had dinner at the Harbour View Hotel Raglan. Nothing fancy, and the outdoor seating was full when we arrived but it was a good spot for a local beer and some fish and chips. From there, we drove east to our Airbnb near Matamata to get a good night’s sleep before our biggest day of the North Island leg.
Day 13: Hobbiton, Tongariro & a Lot of Driving
We woke up early and drove to Hobbiton for the breakfast tour. The breakfast tour is the first tour of the day. You walk into the Shire before any other tour groups arrive, and a massive breakfast is included as part of the experience.
The tour is incredible. The set is fully built out, not just the famous hobbit holes, but the gardens, the bridges, the Green Dragon Inn, the mill, all of it. You learn how Peter Jackson found the property, how the set was built and then rebuilt for The Hobbit trilogy. The tour shares a ton of small details about the filming process that are genuinely interesting even if you’re not a die-hard fan. At the end, you grab a beer (yes, for breakfast) at the Green Dragon and sit down inside the mill for a great feast.
We looked back as we left and saw crowds already gathering for the later tours. If you can swing the breakfast or dinner tour, do it! The early/late timing makes a real difference. The breakfast tour sold out five months ahead of our trip, and the dinner tour was already gone by the time we tried. Lunch and standard tours without meals included run throughout the day and are still worth it if you can’t get the premium breakfast and dinner slots, but go in knowing crowds will be heavier.
Because the breakfast tour wraps up by mid-morning, we had the entire rest of the day to explore. We chose to drive south to Tongariro National Park, the volcanic heart of the North Island. It’s a long drive, about 2.5 hours each way from Matamata, but with only one full day left and so much we wanted to see, we decided to commit.
The drive itself was beautiful. Rolling green countryside, rainbows breaking through after passing showers, and a steady change in landscape as you approach the park.
Tawhai Falls (Gollum’s Pool) — Once in the park, we made our first stop at Tawhai Falls, where Gollum is captured by Faramir’s men after catching a fish in the films. A short, easy walk through native bush brings you to the falls. Clear water, lush green moss, and a quiet pool at the base. Worth the stop regardless of the LOTR connection. You can step out onto the rocks but be careful.
Mount Ruapehu (Mordor) — From there, we drove up toward the base of Mount Ruapehu. The road climbs through bleak, otherworldly volcanic terrain that genuinely does feel like you’re in Mordor.
The weather had other plans for us. As we climbed, a thick fog rolled in and visibility dropped to almost nothing. To make things more dramatic, a steady rain began to fall. We couldn’t see the mountain at all. But driving through this unique landscape in heavy fog was atmospheric in a way that clear weather wouldn’t have been. It was haunting, quiet, completely different from anywhere else we visited. If you do this on a clear day, you’ll get much better views of the surrounding peaks (Ngauruhoe, the iconic Mount Doom, and Tongariro are also visible from the road). Either way, it’s worth doing.
A note on logistics: we had a close call with gas on the drive back. The Tongariro area had limited fuel options, and so did the country roads on the drive back. We underestimated how spread out the stations were. Fill up if you see a station, even if you’re not near empty. We rolled into a station with our digital gauge reading 0 miles to empty. We must have had just a couple left in the tank. That was a little scary, to say the least, as that would have been a terrible way to end the trip.
We made it back to Matamata that evening, picked up Thai takeout from a place near the Airbnb, and spent our last night in the hot tub with the stars. If you have a flexible schedule, we wouldn’t recommend trying to fit Hobbiton and Tongariro into the same day. With only one day left, we wanted to make the most of it, and we don’t regret it, but it was a lot of driving crammed into a day.
If you have an extra day in the area, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is one of the most famous day hikes in the world. We didn’t have time on this trip but it’s high on the list for next time.
Day 14: Auckland & Fly Out
Our last morning, we drove back to Auckland and flew home. No stops, no detours. Just one more long drive through the green countryside and one more reluctant goodbye to a country we’d grown to love.
What We Ate
- Harbour View Hotel, Raglan — relaxed pub vibes with good views; perfect for a wind-down dinner
- Thai takeaway near Matamata — we picked up takeout our last night at the Airbnb and ate by the hot tub; nothing fancy but a perfect way to end the trip
A Note for LOTR Fans
This stretch is North Island LOTR central. Hobbiton is the headline, but Tongariro National Park was used heavily for Mordor and the Plains of Gorgoroth. Tawhai Falls (Gollum’s Pool) is the most accessible filming location, but the entire volcanic landscape of the park appears throughout the trilogy. If you’ve got more time, the area rewards exploration, especially if you can do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
Quick Tips for the North Island Stretch
- Book Hobbiton months in advance — especially the breakfast or dinner tour. We booked our breakfast tour five months in advance and dinner was already sold out. You can try to get on the waitlist for either but availability may not work with your trip. If a spot opens up they will notify you. Go ahead and book a regular tour just in case.
- Don’t skip Raglan — even a single afternoon and evening makes a great wind-down with beach town and surf vibes
- Fill up your gas tank often — fuel stations are sparse in less traveled regions
- Check weather for Tongariro National Park — fog can completely close out the views (though it’s atmospheric either way)
- Stay near Matamata, not Hobbiton itself — there’s not much in the immediate area, but look for rural properties nearby
- Don’t try to do Hobbiton and Tongariro in one day if you can avoid it — it’s a lot of driving; we did it because it was our last day
What We’d Do Differently
Honestly, not much. New Zealand is one of the easiest countries we’ve traveled in and we have fewer regrets here than anywhere else in the world we’ve been. But a few things stand out that we want to pass on to anyone planning their own trip.
1. Stop at Takaka Hill on the way into Golden Bay
We drove over it twice without realizing it was used as Chetwood Forest in Fellowship of the Ring. A short stop on the way in or out would have added a nice LOTR moment to a region we hadn’t planned any LOTR stops in. If you’re a fan, build it in.
2. Stay in Arrowtown instead of Queenstown
Arrowtown became our favorite town in all of New Zealand. We stayed in a guest house in Queenstown that was actually closer to Glenorchy (right by Bob’s Cove), which worked for the scenic drives north into Paradise, but Arrowtown would have been a much more memorable base. It’s quieter, the food is better, and you’re still within easy reach of everything Queenstown has to offer. If you want a more “tourist-strip Queenstown” experience, you can drive in for an evening, but we wouldn’t recommend sleeping there.
3. Rent a smaller hybrid AWD SUV instead of a diesel truck
We picked up a diesel Ford Ranger in Christchurch because AWD was the priority, but the truck was way more vehicle than we needed. A hybrid AWD SUV would have been easier on narrow mountain roads, and (importantly) wouldn’t have led to the petrol-in-the-diesel mistake that cost us a full hiking day. More on that in our New Zealand planning post.
4. Build in one buffer day
We packed two weeks with very little down time, which mostly worked, but a single buffer day somewhere in Canterbury would have let us recover from longer driving days and take advantage of unplanned opportunities. We loved how full the trip was, but one extra day to breathe would have been nice.
5. Don’t bother with dinner in central Queenstown
The one meal we had in the main tourist strip was easily our worst experience of the trip: overpriced, busy, and not the vibe we wanted. Eat in Arrowtown or one of the nearby towns instead. We talk more about this in the Queenstown section above.
Final Thoughts on Our New Zealand Itinerary
New Zealand lived up to every expectation we had and then some. Two weeks felt like the right amount of time for this kind of trip, even though we’d happily go back for much longer. Most of it was spent road-tripping the South Island, with a few days on the North Island to round it out. The landscapes are dramatic, the small towns are warm, the food is better than we expected, and the LOTR filming locations are a nice bonus rather than the whole point.
If we had to summarize the trip in a few takeaways, it would be these: the South Island is the headline, but the North Island is worth the time too. Self-driving is the only way to do this kind of trip justice. For this trip, farm stays beat hotels because the gems aren’t in the cities. And the best moments were almost always the unplanned ones: a fruit stand, a sunset, a herd of sheep that won’t get out of the road, a hot tub under the stars.
If you’re planning your own trip, we hope this itinerary helps. And don’t forget about what to bring! We’ve put together a guide on what to pack that you should check out before you go.
Got questions about planning your own New Zealand trip? Drop them in the comments below.
Happy travels!
